Whether you get a pigeon who has been socialized or a pigeon who has never had any significant interactions with people, a bird in a new environment may not adjust to its new situation easily. Some pigeons may not have any issue at all acclimatizing to a new place and to your presence, but others may have significant trouble making that jump. This is a small guide to help you try to ease that transition.
This guide breaks down what most pigeons need at a basic level to better adjust to an unfamiliar situation and then offers some strategies to help you follow these invisible pigeon guidelines. There will always be special cases that may never really tame down, but the increase in a basic comfort level will still be noticeable.
Habituation, Predictability, and Remembering Your Audience
There are what could be considered three main aspects to helping a pigeon get used to you and their new home: habituation, predictability, and remembering what animal you are dealing with. Let’s quickly go over each one.
Habituation is the process of becoming habituated, or adjusted over time, to something that was originally not a comfortable experience but has been experienced enough times without significant negativity that the experience is no longer as bothersome.
Think of a person on their first day of work or school—it can be quite a stressful experience. But over time, as they learn the geography of the building, the general patterns and routines they perform throughout the day, and get to know the people around them, the initial stress of the unknown passes. However, to achieve this adjustment, they must repeatedly experience the environment and routines on a regular basis. It is hard to habituate to anything that isn’t a regular part of one’s life. So habituation requires repeated effort and time for the experience to soak in.
Predictability simply means that you have routines and cues that can be easily learned and predicted. Your pigeon should always understand what to expect from you to be comfortable around you.
Remembering your audience is perhaps the most difficult for some people to keep in mind. Consider the animal you are trying to ease! Pigeons are prey animals, which is very important because it directly influences their innate confidence level. A cat or a dog will have more inherent confidence than any prey animal when adjusting to a new home. They may not be at the very top of their ancestors’ food chains, but they were much, much further up than our pigeons.
Pigeons are hard-wired to be on the lookout for predators at all times. Unfortunately for us, our hands—and fingers in particular—look an awful lot like the talons of a bird of prey. Hands are inherently pretty scary to a pigeon! But, overall, unsocialized pigeons just have to learn that we are not going to eat them, and it’s up to us to convince them.
In summary, with pigeons being prey animals, they learn things are safe best by being repeatedly exposed to non-traumatic events without pushing their limits. Seeing things many times with nothing wrong happening—and perhaps even with something positive happening—reinforces the idea that these things are safe. And lastly, being able to predict what you are going to do is key: the worst thing for a prey animal to try and adjust to is a person they cannot predict anything from. How can they know what you’ll do if they can’t predict you at all? You could do anything! They’re prey animals, so they are likely to assume the worst if they’re already afraid. You have to learn to work with these factors.
Tips, Tricks, and Strategies
There are many small tidbits to help your pigeon adjust—and more complicated ones, too.
- Pigeons are excellent pattern mappers, but it is easier to recognize a pattern if it is tied to a cue. When you need to change food, water, or grit in your pigeon’s cage, develop a very short, highly repeatable and memorable verbal cue to indicate what you are there to do. Just the word “water!” or “food!” can be enough to get across what you need to. You can accompany this with a further cue of pointing with your finger at the bowl you are aiming for, showing the pigeon what direction your hand will be moving in.
- Quietly spend time in the same area as your pigeon, at least an hour or two every day. The majority of this time, if the pigeon is obviously not comfortable (signs of discomfort/fear in a pigeon could include wedging themselves in the opposite corner of the cage than the place you are, or locking still in fear) you should simply sit in sight and do something to occupy yourself. Read a book, use your phone, bring a sketchbook—the idea is to spend a good amount of time in the pigeon’s presence not doing anything much and giving the pigeon a chance to observe you without you moving around a bunch or you staring at it. Paying too much attention to an uncomfortable bird is not the path to convincing them you are safe; that is the behavior of a predator. A prey animal is going to be far more comfortable with someone who’s being still and minding their own business rather than someone moving around the room, watching them too closely.
- Eat at the same time as your bird. When you provide the bird with their feed, whether it is daily or a meal-feed, try to have yourself something to eat at the same time, a few feet away. Far enough that the bird is comfortable enough to eat, but can still see you. It doesn’t matter what you eat (if you’re eating chicken wings, for instance, your pigeon does not recognize that that is meat, don’t worry), but flockmates eat together, and by consistently eating at the same time as your bird you may help provide them a source of solidarity.
- Associate your visits with treats. If you can figure out a seed your pigeon prefers quite a lot, make it a point to give them a small amount when you visit—make sure they see you have provided it. They’re unlikely to eat out of your hand if they are scared, but just leaving it in their view at the door of the cage and then hanging out in sight will help them associate their treat with you.
- Respect personal space. Remember, if you are not following this already, that pigeons require being given ample personal space. Unnecessary habitual grabbing is going to make a bird flighty and avoidant. Only touch an unwilling pigeon when necessary, and tell them a cue as to what is happening. If your pigeon needs nails trimmed now and then, having a cue tied to this event will tell your pigeon that 1. This is an event they have experienced before and have gotten through okay, and 2. It provides a precedent that you do not grab them at random—you warn them before you are going to. This makes you predictable. This is crucial for pigeons to learn you are safe.
- Try responding to contact calls. This will not work with all pigeons, but if they contact-call while in your presence, you can try contact-calling back; just make sure they can see you did it. Don’t do it off around the corner. If you have other pigeons but this one is in quarantine, if you have videos of you and your pigeons interacting that show recognizable parts of you, you can try showing this to the pigeon. It’s a bit unclear whether this works on a wide scale, but anecdotally, it does seem to help with adjustment.
- Start small. A bird that is willing to leave the cage but is very hand-shy may find some success approaching you by moving a small trail of treats in your direction over multiple sessions. When the bird no longer darts away when it gets close, try putting a towel in your lap, your hands visible in your lap, near your hips, but not holding the treats, and, importantly, still. When the bird is comfortable eating from your lap, over time move your hands into a more prominent position, palm down, and allow the bird to inspect your hands at their own pace. Over sessions, rotate your hand palm upward, slowly introducing more of your hand for inspection. Move a finger now and then as the bird gets more comfortable. Start trying to feed from your hand when you judge it is ready. Don’t try to approach the bird with your hand—let the bird come to you.
- Don’t be afraid to experiment with things—sometimes, something that you’ve never heard of will unexpectedly work. The trick is to keep in mind the core tenets of allowing them to feel safe—making it habitual and consistent (up to a point; don’t push something further if it is obviously making reactivity worse), making it predictable and removing any guesses of what you are doing from the equation, and remembering that these are prey animals with social rules that make unrequested touching a big stinky deal. Work within these constraints, and you may find an unconventional strategy that works for you.